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Monster Mask Painting

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  • Monster Mask Painting

    Hello children, guess what time it is! It's time for another how-to-paint a goalie mask thread. I know I said that the next mask I paint would be a Reverse Flash mask, but I've been busy painting other not goalie mask things (seadoo windshield, for example) and am still designing it. So this will be the next mask I paint.

    All the client said was that he wanted a monster of some kind, using the colours of his pads (dark blue, yellow and white) and maybe a Biosteel logo somewhere. He provided me with a few pics of Pekka Rinne's mask, along with Vesa Toskala's Toronto skull mask. He didn't want a direct copy, just something original in that style. So I just kept drawing monsters until I was satisfied with something, taking bits and pieces from each design I did. I sent him a couple of sketches and he was happy with everything but these bat wings that I had coming out of the monster's temples. He thought they were fish gills so I replaced them with horns and he was happy. Then he mentioned if I could have it breaking/stretching through the mask so I incorporated that into the design and he loved it.

    My digital drawing skills suck so my designs are just meant to get my point across to the client, which he understood. And for some reason I thought that he had purple and yellow gear so that's why the face is purply. The final paint will be bluey. This is what I came up with:


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    Last edited by parebele; 07-10-2018, 11:19 PM.

  • #2
    As always, the first step is disassembly. The mask is a CCM 1.9 (I think). The padding isn't removeable on this mask so I'm going to just mask it up. Once it's disassembled then it's sanded with 600 grit wet sandpaper, followed by scuffing with a red scotch-brite pad. It's important to make sure you scuff all of the edges and the inside edges of the vent holes so the paint won't chip off later.

    The CCM logos what were on the forehead and sides weren't stickers. I think they were just thin paint, as they sanded right off which is great! It saves me the hassle of having to cover them with white paint. Dry everything off and wipe it down with precleaner (wax and grease remover, I use PPG DX330) and then mask everything up. I completely cover the interior of the mask with tape and paper. Overspray can deteriorate the padding and it just looks bad when it's done. Having said that, some overspray usually gets on the edges of the foam no matter what I do.

    The next step will be to lay down some transfer tape, sketch the rips and tears (they'll be staying white), cut them out and then start painting. Before the mask was sanded and prepped I drew the monster on the shell just to see how my design would transfer onto the curved surface. I used a Stabillo pencil which is a waxless/greaseless coloured pencil that wipes away easily and leaves no residue so I don't have to worry about fish eyes or wrinkling or anything later on. You can even paint over it with no problems. And even if the surface was scuffed, it would still wipe away easily.

    I'll use these photos for reference so I know where to put things. I might try fiddling with the way the hands are tilted, and I'm definitely going to change the tears.

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    • #3
      With the transfer tape on I sketched out the design and then cut out the eyes, nose, rips/tears/ teeth, horns and claws. I basically just cut out the parts that have contrasting colours, like the horns, and areas that I want clean definition from, like the teeth.

      The next step will be to paint the eyes, nose and mouth (minus the teeth). This is more for mapping purposes, just so I know where everything goes. I've left out a lot of detail in the face like wrinkles and textures because everything inside the face will be freehand and I don't like to plan that out too much.

      The last picture is the design for the backplate. I was going to do the 'powered by biosteel' in blue tones but was told that it has to be red lettering on a white background, as per the company.

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      Last edited by parebele; 07-24-2018, 09:40 PM.

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      • #4
        So I've unmasked the mouth area and sprayed it with 50/50 mixture of pthalo blue and black. I then took pure black and fogged it in the center, since that's the darkest area of the mouth. It's not very noticeable (if at all) most of the time but once it's cleared and in the right light the edges will tint blue. After that I painted the whole face using a lightish blute, just to speed things up a bit. I'm still using automotive urethanes. The basecoats, which are opaque, are either PPG or RM Diamont. The candy colours, which are transparent, are House of Kolor.

        Then it's on to the fun part: freehanding! I personally love freehand airbrushing. It's much more fun than stencil work. Using a mixture of Cobalt blue and Oriental blue I start shading and shadowing the face. Remember to keep the light source in mind when doing shadows. If you don't it can look kind of weird. The reason I mixed the two blues is because Cobalt blue has a purpley tint and Oriental blue has a green tint to it. Mixing them gives me a nice normal blue. I don't put too much detail into this stage but use more broad strokes to define light and dark areas. The darker I go the more detail I put into it. The great thing about candies is that the more paint that goes on, the darker it gets. It will almost go completely black, but that's a lot of paint to get there. I slowly add black to my blue mixture to darken it. If you take your time layering your colours, you will not only build depth (reallly noticeable when cleared) but it enables you to darken an image without muddying it up.

        The next step is to just continue shading and detailing with the blue until I'm satisfied with it. I don't know how dark I'll go with it. The clients' pads are navy blue, but if I go that dark then very few details will be noticeable.

        Normally it's important to paint everything evenly at the same time so that the image is balanced when finished and some parts (like arms or legs) don't look different or overworked. I've chosen to leave the claws masked up because they would look different due to the fact that they're not right up against the face and would look lighter since more light is hitting them. And it will give a nice contrast from a distance.

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        • #5
          I'm basically done with the monster face at this point. It's fairly dark, but the clients' gear is Nashville predators colours (navy blue) and he wants it to match. Or at least be very close.

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          And now the claws! I've unmasked them and start playing with forms using a light blue, eventually filling in the entire claw. I'll be using the same colour steps as I did with the face, and am using an Iwata HP-C airbrush.

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          Next is the pthalo blue, defining shadows and depth, and adding details like the striations on the nails and lines on the fingers.

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          • #6
            The final step is shading the darkest areas, using the same pthalo blue that has been darkened with some added black. I also switched to my Iwata Custom Micron airbrush which gives me consistent hairline ability.

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            • #7
              And now it's on to the background, which is really the foreground since the monster is coming out of it. Anyway, I masked up the monster and claws and unmasked the horns and parts to be yellow. I forgot to take pics of it, but I'm sure you can figure out what it looks like. The bottom part is just Nashville yellow, with some shading and shadows using a mixture of black and root beer, which takes on a kind of orangey colour when sprayed over yellow. The horns were done using a creamy yellow base, then gold candy, then root beer candy, then some shadowing with a root beer/black mixture.

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              And here's what it looks like unmasked:

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              • #8
                Next stop: the gums. I wasn't sure what colour to make them. Most of the time I do them in pink or red (gingivitus) but with this colour scheme it might be too bright and draw your eyes to it. I don't want the gums to be a focal point so I decided to paint them in a bluish gray colour. I just used a medium gray, and then did the shadows using the same pthalo blue/black mixture that I used on the face and claws. I know it doesn't look right but keep in might that because of the way I makes when painting the mouth, the tips of the teeth are still bright. It will look much more normal later. And normally I wouldn't have masked off the rest of the face, but I was using an opaque gray and the overspray would have muddied up the surrounding area. Candy overspray isn't usually a problem, as long as the colours aren't contrasting.

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                • #9
                  And now for the teeth. Since they've been cut out from the beginning, all I had to do was remove one at a time and spray the shading and shadowing on them using a mixture of root beer and black. Which is basically dark brown I guess. Leaving them white and using a light gray/black shading would have left them too bright, which would have drawn your eyes right to them. I don't want them to be the focal point, but not necessarily disappear also. And brown is a good tone since while the bosses usuallly have an excellent dental plan, the monster minions are usually left without dental coverage and poor oral hygiene. The only thing is to make sure you remove the teeth in the right order, since these ones overlap each other, in order to get the shadows right.

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                  • #10
                    The only thing left to do before clearcoat are the shading/shadows on the rips/tears. I used a transparent bluish black that was over-reduced to add some shadows. It's important not to overdo it and add too many. Less is more, and a little goes a long way. With that done, it's off for clear! The end is nigh, children.

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                    • #11
                      Here's a couple of pics of the backplate. I was going to do white lettering and logo on a blue background inside the ripped hole, but the client (thankfully) let me know that anything biosteel has to be red lettering on a white background. Also, the 'biosteel' word and logo had to be fully visible. I was going to hide more of it under the edges but oh well. I think it's a corporate thing, but doesn't really matter. Luckily I hadn't started the backplate at that point. I usually try and do both together just so I don't have to keep remixing colours and refilling the airbrush. It just saves time.

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                      • #12
                        The first round of clearcoat is on and looks pretty good actually. I sprayed my usual three coats of high solid Glasurit clear. The masks I paint actually have more clearcoat on them than your car. Not kidding! Anyway, the next step is to wetsand it completely smooth with 600 grit paper and then spray on a few white highlights here and there, maybe a little on the gums, cheeks and fingers. Again, when it comes to highlights, less is more. I'll be competely unmasking and then remasking the mask before the next round of clear. It makes it easier to unmask the final time since you do get a decent amount of clear thickness on there. The backplate will not get anymore clear, since it looks good and it's just a backplate. There aren't any edges to bury and most backplates never get hit with pucks.

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                        • #13
                          So here's the final product. The owner was very pleased with everything, although he did say that it didn't help his game at all . This was a fun one to do, as I love freehanding.
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                          Last edited by parebele; 08-21-2018, 07:35 PM.

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