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Deadpool Mask Painting

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  • #16
    I masked off the DP logos using 1/8" fineline masking tape. I don't use the blue 3M vinyl fineline anymore and have switched to using fine masking tape from other companies. I find the vinyl tapes will lift or pull in the corners, no matter how careful I am not to stretch it when laying it down. I sprayed bright red down and once that was dry I used 1/16" tape around the edges. I used it to create a bevel effect by spraying a darker candy red around the tape in some areas and leaving a 1/16" gap and spraying that dark in other areas. Then it's time to mask the red and spray the black areas.

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    • #17
      Now that the red is masked the next step is to spray the black and forget to take photos of it. Although it it's just straight black, no ghosting or pearl or anything, so you're really not missing much. I left the eyes masked while doing the black, so that all I had to do for the beveling was use a freehand shield. Shields are just pieces of whatever (plastic, credit cards, paper scraps) used to keep overspray at bay or just create some shapes or lines. They save a ton of time over masking and cutting. Next, remove the masking and see what you're left with.

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      • #18
        I've decided I'm going to pinstripe the right side DP in black, so it has more of a comic book feel (which it's supposed to be). The left side will just get an outline of black. The black will help both DP's stand out from the red background just a little bit. The pinstriping won’t happen until after the first round of clear coat though. It's easier to stripe on a perfectly smooth surface, and you can wipe away any paint if you screw it up. I am not confident in my pinstriping skills.

        Now I have to figure out what to do about the big space on the chin and the top. I like the idea of Spider-Man on the chin but that may change once I start doing mockups. I think the top is going to get a unicorn. Deadpool uses unicorns for...well...google it.
        Last edited by parebele; 04-09-2018, 07:48 PM.

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        • #19
          I ended up changing my mind about the unicorn on top. I decided to go with....Hello Kitty! It just made more sense to me than the unicorn. Of course I forgot to take photos while I was painting, but it's the same process. The only difference is that I drew Hello Kitty on the computer Illustrator and then cut it out on the plotter. It not only saves time but the small circles look cleaner. I also added my jester on the chin. It's a design I came up with years ago and can be found somewhere on pretty much everything I paint.

          All that's left now is Spider-man on the side of the chin and she's done!

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          • #20
            While I figure out Spider-Man, I start on the backplate. The first thing I did after stripping the padding and hardware was scuff it with 600 grit sandpaper and a red scotch-brite pad, degrease it, and then give it a couple of coats of clear. I did this because I need to save the CSA and HECC stickers. Normally I just remove them because I don't care but every now and again I play in a league where the refs will check for certified masks. The HECC sticker in particular will peel up and tear if masked over with masking tape and the only way to prevent this is to bury it in clear coat.

            I've decided to put a heart-shaped deadpool logo on the back. Same process as before (come on kids, say it with me): mask the plate with transfer tape, transfer the design by tracing it on, cut it out with an X-acto knife and start painting. Just to be consistent I forgot to take pictures of the red part, but it looks exactly like the logos on the sides of the mask so you can look at them for reference.

            What's next, children? That's right! Mask up the red and spray the black. I always keeps the coats light and apply them using a cross-hatch pattern. That just means I spray up and down on one coat, and then left and right on the next. This enables me to get even coverage over a larger area with an airbrush. Light coats will help keep graphic edges to a minimum, which in turn will save on the amount of clear coat needed to bury them. A little bit of highlighting around the eyes and it's done.

            I didn't think I would like these backplates because of the bump in the middle of them, but it works with this design. By placing the eyes a bit above the bump it gives the illusion of Deadpool's nose and cheekbones under his mask. Mocking up designs in photoshop enables me to use the shape of the mask to my advantage, and will also alert me to any image distortion problems the bumps and ridges may cause. Also, the heart is a proper heart shape in real life. The camera makes it look more round than it actually is.

            All that's left on the backplate is a blue puzzle piece for autism awareness. That will go on the lower left. And then it's back to the mask.

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            • #21
              I added the blue Autism puzzle piece to the backplate. I will add a drop shadow after it's cleared simply because I'm too lazy to do it now. It doesn't make any difference either way.

              And Spider-Man is done. I masked him off and started with bright red, then did the shading with a candy red. I masked off the red and sprayed the blue, and then unmasked the red and shaded the muscle tone with a weak transparent black. I unmasked everything before doing this so the shadows would travel across the red and blue consistently. I also used bright red because I wanted to set him apart from Deadpool's darker red suit. I'm happy with the way it turned out.

              Mask off and spray the black around his eyes and he's done. For now, at least. I wet sanded off any overspray or blow-throughs, and also gave the white areas a light sanding just to get any pencil marks or dirt/paint off.

              It will get it's first round of clear coat tomorrow. After that, I'll sand it smooth with 600 grit wet sandpaper and then do the outlines around Deadpool, a few highlights here and there, and paint in the webbing on Spider-Man's suit. If all goes to plan then it will get it's second and last clear coat session on Monday and then reassembly on Tuesday or Wednesday. The end is nigh, children.

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              • #22
                Got the clear coat on today. Before spraying the clear I put a coat of intercoat clear on first. It's basically transparent, colourless basecoat. I like to put a coat on because if you use a lot of candies like I do, the clear can sometimes bite into them and run or sag the candy. This gives a fading/glowing look which on darker backgrounds isn't a problem. But it shows up on white.

                I put three coats of clear on and once that's fully cured I'll sand with 600 grit wet and then pinstripe.

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                • #23
                  So I wet sanded the mask and backplate with 600 grit sandpaper. And I ended up burning through the clear and into the basecoat along the ridge where Deadpools' belt is on the right side. Oh well, these things happen. I just ended up masking up the belt and respraying it, and then masking the background and respraying that. It's a pain in the *** but it does happen from time to time. The sharp ridges and lines of the mask don't make it easy. Especially the Bauer masks.

                  Anyway, once that was done I wiped the masked down with a mixture of water and degreaser, and then grabbed a small #0 brush and my black House of Kolor Pinstriping paint and outlined the right hand Deadpool and added the webbing on Spider-Man. I also added a little bit of white on the top of the left hand Deadpools' gun, just to separate it from the background a little bit. Using a greaseless white pencil I drew the webbing on Spider-Man before painting it. I do this often for consistency and to make sure it looks good, and any pencil that doesn't get covered in paint wipes away with degreaser. I'm really happy with how Spider-Man turned out!

                  Tomorrow it will get its final three coats of clear and then reassembly on Tuesday or Wednesday. Then I'll take some photos and use it on Friday. It's actually good timing because last night I took a shot to the face that bent one of the center bars of my Joker mage, so I have to order a new cage for that tomorrow.

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                  • #24
                    Shot the last of the clear coat today. Am going to wait a bit longer to start putting it back together. Overall, I'm kind of happy with it.

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                    • #25
                      Alright, it's the last post of mine for this thread. The mask is fully together and I'm fairly happy with the results. There are things I would do differently and maybe even change, but overall I think it looks pretty good. I really like the way the white cage looks. It's funny, because I ordered a chrome cage but they sent the white one by mistake and I didn't want the hassle of sending it back across the border to exchange it for the proper one.

                      I'm pretty sure the next mask I'll be painting for myself will be a Reverse-Flash (Eobard Thawne) themed mask. I might do his logo on either side just like this one, with some iteration of him in the middle. I know it will have lightning flashing around the mask, but with the theme it makes sense (DaveArt, are you listening? I'm looking in your direction). That will be next month at the earliest though, as I'm getting them from Protechsport. And sorry for the poor photos and horrible lighting. I don't have a professional setup for that.

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