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Painting/unpainting my Mask

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  • Painting/unpainting my Mask

    I hate being goalie and an artist. My mask is fully painted and everything, but now I want a totally new design to match my green and red jersey. Instead of blowing another $300 on a new mask I'm thinking of just repainting mine. Is it safe to use paint thinner, lacquer thinner, etc on a mask (Bauer NME 5 specifically) without destroying it?

  • #2
    Just sand it down enough to get a paintable surface. Don't worry about getting 100% of the old paint off. You want it smooth enough to remove imperfections but rough enough to get a good adhesion. Don't bother with all those chemicals. You'll also probably want to prime the mask so that the old paintjob doesn't show though.

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    • #3
      As below. If the previous paint is fine flatting the mask with 800 grit wet and dry paper till its dull all over will be fine. I wouldn't prime unless needed as its another thick layer of paint. If your worried about coverage. Either one coat of base black or base white will do.

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      • #4
        i saw on a bauer website link that you are not suppost to paint nme 5 and 3 series masks i think because they are plastic masks

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        • #5
          as long as the correct adhesion promotors, primers and plastisicers are used its perfectly fine,

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          • #6
            Don't try and remove the current paint job. As mentioned, just scuff down the clear coat and paint over it. Depending upon the paint you will be using, you may want to go to something a little coarser than 800. If you are using a water based paint, I would use 600 wet paper. Water based paint needs a decent tooth to grab on to. If you are using solvent based paints, the 800 should work fine. Also, use a red or gray scotchbrite pad to get in to all the nooks and crannys that the sand paper misses. Remember to clean the surface with wax and grease remover before and after sanding.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by j30p View Post
              i saw on a bauer website link that you are not suppost to paint nme 5 and 3 series masks i think because they are plastic masks
              Well... oops. Though it's kinda stupid, goalie masks should be designed to be customized. Haven't had any problem with mine.

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              • #8
                the only problem using 600 grit and water based paints is the scrathces will show through silvers and course colours, we have pretty much gone off any had flatting with less than 1000's now when we refinish cars, this is done in dupont chromax

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                • #9
                  Take the money you're going to spend on paint and get a good mask. A cool paintjob won't protect your head.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by hroark2112 View Post
                    Take the money you're going to spend on paint and get a good mask. A cool paintjob won't protect your head.
                    What's wrong with mine? It's totally certified, very comfortable.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Little Fox View Post
                      What's wrong with mine? It's totally certified, very comfortable.
                      Certified doesn't always mean quality. Look at Bauer 1500, 2500. Widow makers is what they.

                      Check out a Hackva. I have one and love it. And about having the mask match your team just use some vinyl tape in the colours you're looking for. I mean if you were to get a new helmet.

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                      • #12
                        It's a Bauer NME 5. As far as I can tell it does the job, feels great. Painting doesn't seem to have hurt it any. Saved my face many times.

                        OTHER QUESTION-
                        Looking for non certified cateye in either chrome or white. Found ones that say fit NME masks. While some say like NME 7-9. Is there a difference?

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                        • #13
                          Little Fox, I've painted many NME 3's and 5's without any problems. As long as the current paint and clear coat are in good condition with no signs of damage or peeling, you should be able to just scuff it down good and paint over it. Cuprajake makes a good point regarding creating scratch marks with the sand paper. What ever paper you use, make sure you're not leaving scratch marks. If you see scratch marks, stop and go to a finer paper. You want to scuff it not scratch it. Use plenty of water and add one drop of dish soap to a bucket of water and let your sand paper soak for 10 minutes before using it. Most of my mask paintings are done with Auto Air, which is a water base paint and it likes a decent tooth for good adhesion, so I use 600 grit wet paper. If you decide to use water based paints, which is all I would use on a polycarbonate mask, try spraying Auto Air sealer white or dark first directly on top of the scuffed clear coat. This sealer really bonds well to provide a good base for subsequent layers of paint and artwork. You haven't indicated what type of paint you're considering for this job, but I would stay away from spray can stuff as most of it is lacquer based and there's no telling how it will react with the polycarbonate.

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                          • #14
                            beware with hackva they say 4-6 but i am still waiting form memorial day to receive mine.....greta mask but damn it takes forever

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                            • #15
                              In my experience with painting, or more specifically, sanding, be sure to change the paper more often than you think. My first couple jobs looked awful thanks to not changing paper. It leaves big scratches in the surface. Now, I just change it more often than necessary to be safe.

                              And just something weird, I painted an Itech 1200 as a practice mask, and it looks better than any of the paint jobs I did on my Eddy CK and GT, and it seems to be more resistant to cracking in the clear even after flexing it by hand.

                              Good luck and be sure to throw up some photos when you're done!

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